Lake Como and Milan (Kid Stuff)

The train ride from Vernazza on the Cinque Terra to Varenna on Lake Como took longer than expected.  One delayed train and the dominos start falling.  Nonetheless, perseverance eventually won the day and as dusk settled in we boarded the small ferry to Bellagio.  And Bellagio is simply stunning.....and a stark contrast to the humble villages of the Cinque Terra.  Everything proclaims a sense of money, aristocracy, and a past, if not present, dominated by noblemen.  The local chamber of commerce was probably a little dismayed when Jamie and I disembarked the ferry.  Just kidding.......as with all our travels, we found the locals to be extremely helpful, accommodating , and good natured.

Anyway, we got checked-in to our hotel and then found a little restaurant that appeared to be filled with locals tucked into a vaulted brick cellar of an old building just a couple of blocks distant.  The food tasted great after a long day traveling and then it was off to bed.  Lake Como is dead quiet after dark and a bit of a shock to the system after the sound of Vernazza.

The Sound of Vernazza (Kid Stuff)

Day one:  And we woke the next morning ready to poke around the tiny byways of the upscale town before hiking over the hill to the adjoining village of Pescallo which resides on the other side of the "peninsula".  And then back over the "hogsback" to stroll and view the gardens of Villa Melzi. 

Day two:  Another ferry boat ride, 15 minutes tops, and we found ourselves in another tiny village on the opposite shore - Menaggio.  And I'm sure you know our modus operandi by now.  Yes, more exploring on foot.  

The area had seen fighting in WWII as Mussolini attempted to flee north to Switzerland in the face of the advancing Allies.  Small, non-descript reader boards honored the fallen at various locations throughout the town.  It was hard to imagine that such an idyllic area of beauty and serenity could serve as the stage to some of man's worst impulses.  And I had to wonder about the young GI, just a mere boy, who had dutifully reconnoitered the same narrow lanes that I now casually explored.  His reality and mine.......        

Day 3:  We awoke to a  good solid rain.  The first and only day of rain on the trip.  But as we've learned in the Pacific Northwest - wait for perfect weather and you never go.  

So another hop on the ferry.  This day to meander Varenna where we had entered this tranquil valley and a walk along the promenade at the Villa Monastero. 

Day 4:  Another travel day.  We took the "fast" boat to the town of Como at the head of the lake.  "Fast" because we opted for the speedier catamaran with fewer stops rather than the slower and more frequent stops of the passenger's only boat.  The previous day's rains had turned into quite a thunder storm overnight and the first snow of the season dusted the higher elevations.

Lunch across the street from the Cattedrale di Como and  then on to Milan by train.

Day 5:  Milan - so much to see, so little time.  We settled upon the rooftop of the Duomo di Milano as our "must do".  The cathedral is massive, gothic, and truly majestic - inside and out.

But first the adventure of getting there from our hotel.  And for that we chose the subway system.  A bit intimidating at first but Jamie soon figures out that we need to get to the Duomo station - well duh, Doug - and with a swipe of the credit card at one of many ticket kiosks, a look at the map, and a quick search for the color coded route, we're off.  Well almost.  As the masses surged towards the train, Yours truly was a twinkling slow of foot and managed to get his left appendage stuck in the automatic train door as it closed.  And let me bear witness, unlike our elevators here in the states, the Italian train doors don't pop right back open.  Indeed, upon first contact there is a second and then a third and fourth surge.  Those additional gnaws on the ankle bone could only be interpreted as warning shots - "Hey!  Knucklehead!!  Don't do that again!"  For a couple of seconds I had visions of leaving Milan with a prosthetic foot as a souvenir.  But no worries, the bear trap eventually let go the death grip and I'm happy to report that this old, goofy American was responsible for giving a number of local commuters a chuckle as they started their workday.  International relations in practice. 

No sooner had we ascended the stairs out of the subway into the Duomo's plaza than a "street vendor" approached.  And he put a handful of corn kernels into mine.  What???  But in a second, we realized we were expected to feed the pigeons, which surely outnumbered even the tourists.  And that's saying something.  So, I handed the kernels to Jamie and she proceeded with characteristic enthusiasm and wonder......for a time.

Well, on to the cathedral and adjacent museum.  Pictures don't do it justice.  But a picture is worth a thousand words.

Then the subway home and a last night Italian dinner at Osteria Mamma Rosa.  Truly unforgettable.  

Day 6:  Headed home.  We strode out the entrance of our hotel at 7:00 AM and took the 45 minute train ride to the Milan Malpensa Airport.  Some 30+ hours later we staggered through the front door of our Anacortes home - 2:30 AM.  

We are so grateful for the the sights, sounds, tastes, smells, and feels that God has allowed us to experience these past two weeks.  But family and home would be at the top of that list.  I read of a study recently that found that morning coffee tastes best when drank from one's favorite cup.  How true.